In Montreal the best Greek cuisine is in Park Extension or on Park Avenue, the best Italian is of course in St. Leonard or Little Italy, the best Southern Asian is located on Jean-Talon (also in Park Ex), the best delis are on The Main, and the best East Asian food can be found in Chinatown. You don’t need to be Mr. Spock to understand that logic. Well image my surprise when, on a business lunch with a sales rep from Toronto, I was told that there was now an authentic Mexican eatery right in the heart of the Chinatown. Yes, Chinatown. A Mexican restaurant in Chinatown. A combination that must be Donald Trump’s worst nightmare realized. So of course I had to check it out.
The place in question is La Capital Tacos at 1096 Boulevard St. Laurent. I visited it on a Saturday evening. (Easy to find with the neon “Taco” sign in the window.)
The intimate establishment had less than 10 tables, including a long wooden one we awkwardly shared with several other people. The eclectic minimalist décor combined iconic Far East and South of the Border images that somehow seemed to work well together. The staff was courteous and friendly and the atmosphere was welcoming, if a little too loud (at times my dinner companion and I had difficulty engaging in our usual sparkling conversation).
The serve-yourself napkins were rolls of brown paper towels found on the table next to the drinking glasses holding the utensils. Our server was quick to bring us water and the terse menus, which were French on one side, and for a curious touch, English and Chinese (I don’t know it was Mandarin or Cantonese) on the other. (Which begs the question: Is there a word for “taco” in Chinese?)
Also on the table were two squeeze containers of sauce, one chipotle and the other salsa verde, which like all their condiments are made in-house. Both were fantastic (especially the slow burn of the former).
We started with the guacamole (also made in-house) which comes in $4 or $7 options (being two of us we opted for the latter) and ensalada de betabel, both of which arrived in mere minutes. The robust guacamole was served with thick tortilla chips that were replenished before we could ask for more, and was top-notch. The ensalada de betabel was quite interesting (especially considering beets in and of themselves are rather drab) and disappeared quickly.
For our entrées we both chose the $13 Rib-Eye (beef tacos). My companion first opted for Pirata (a $6 beef quesadilla) but was warned by our waiter that it was not filling enough on its own. I had my Rib-Eye with extra cheese (because EVERYTHING is better with extra cheese).
One gets 3 tacos per order (which were amusingly enough served on clichéd Asian style plates), with a savory green jalapeño & garlic dipping sauce and a wedge of lime. Mine came with small slices of pineapple while my companion’s had scallions. The tacos were not the size or density of your average homogenized, chain Tex/Mex comfort food joints with names like Mexican Mike’s or Tijuana Ted’s or Chihuahua Charlie’s or Guadalajara…well, you get the idea, but the overall meal was satisfying and certainly flavourful. I had a Corona beer to wash it down, just to make the adventure a little more complete. (Or maybe I should have ordered a Tsingtao instead?)
I have often heard people say that while the new trendy restaurants these days have more stimulating fare, the portions are too small and too expensive. The argument can be made that La Capital Tacos fits in that category. But overall it was a singular and positive experience; an establishment well worth checking out, and not just for the novelty.
