By Michael Minorgan for Curtains Up
www.globalgourmets.ca michael@globalgourmets.ca
Restaurants located in hotels have never been my first choice when planning a night out. I don’t know if it’s the “if I’m staying there why would I eat there” syndrome or if it’s just my perception that most hotel restaurants are usually over priced, a bit stuffy and pretentious and in many cases don’t live up to their hype and stratospheric prices.
Thankfully however most large hotels also have baby brothers, eateries more suited to families and cost conscious budgets. The latter was my selection of choice as determined by the coupon I had recently purchased on line from Living Social which for the sum of $49 offered us a sumptuous dinner for two at Osco in the Intercontinental Hotel located between our Convention Center and Old Montreal.
On entering the hotel by its entrance on St Jacques you are immediately thrust back to the dance hall days of Paris fabled for its celebration of some of the day’s most infamous painters, Toulouse Lautrec being one that comes immediately to mind as he was featured in that evocative painting cavorting with questionable bar maids in a smoked filled absinthe bar.
The Intercontinental is indeed an impressive structure. Once you have navigated its impressive interior you come across Osco situated just off the main lobby and dominated by an impressive glassed in wine cellar room. Osco reeks of understated French provincial luxury and evokes all the colors and flavours of Provence replete with gold striped moon shaped banquettes sumptuously adorned with small puffy throw cushions. There is also a long line of elaborate and multi designed sparkling crystal chandeliers decoratively hanging from above. The atmosphere is classy, colourful and romantic, but its menu prices are definitely comfortable and extremely easy on the pocket.
We were led by the maitre d’ to one of the comfy banquettes where our waiter explained our options with our Living Social coupon. We could select any six dishes from the menu with no restrictions and all the dishes would be individually plated in smaller portions so we could share each one.
The menu at Osco is impressive and lists a large selection of French Provincial dishes under the categories of Chef’s Specialties, Fish & Seafood, Grills, Risottos and even a small choice of ‘pitchounettes’ or small pizzas with the price of the most expensive dish being only $16.
After careful deliberation we chose our six dishes. The prices indicated for each here are the listed a la carte menu prices: Joue de veau braise, spaetzles au pistou et sauce au foie gras $14, Cotelette d’agneau en croute de pistaches, jus au thym et peperonata $16, Petit filet de boeuf, compote d’olives et pommes de terre paillasson $16, Crevettes flambées a l’absinthe avec fenouil et tomates cerises $14, Tartare de saumon a notre façon $14, Terrine de foie gras, figues et roquette (60gr) $12.. We also chose a bottle of Spanish red wine Conca de Barbera Syrah 2010 Clos Mont Blanc, Catalogne $58.
Our food arrived beautifully plated on individual dishes each themselves a work of art. The plates completely filled our table and presented a daunting visual challenge to our appetites.
The salmon tartar was attractively presented in its individual mini cast iron coquette and was accompanied by a cute mini mason jar of pickled vegetables and toasted baguette croutons. This was the least impressive of the dishes. The freshness of the salmon was unquestionable, but it lacked that extra bump of flavour needed to elevate it beyond its artistic presentation. The other dish that fell a bit short in my opinion were the shrimp flamed in absinthe. It lacked that delicious soothing liquorice flavour of the advertised absinthe and the accompanying braised fennel and cherry tomatoes fell a bit flat and did little to elevate the dish.
On the positive side, the other dishes were all equally and individually delicious. The braised veal cheek with pistou spaetzle, lentils and foie gras sauce was unctuously fork tender, full of flavour and quite literally melted in my mouth. Another of the Chef’s Specialties, two plump lamb chops arrived perfectly cooked and tender under their pistachio crust and with a delicious accompaniment of peperonata and thym jus…heaven! Our other beef dish, the small filet was cooked perfectly medium rare as ordered and came with a Mediterranean inspired olive compote or tapenade and sat on top of a crispy pancake of fried straw potatoes, all drizzled with a rich red wine reduction.
I must say that a little more than half way through this culinary journey our belts were already straining.
Our final foray into this journey of French Provincial cuisine was by far the most sinfully excessive, a smooth and rich slice of foie gras terrine accompanied by fresh figs, a pillowy honey flavoured pear compote, a small salad of baby roquette and a buttery toasted croissant…sinful!
I should make mention of the service at Osco which was nothing short of perfection: polished, professional and friendly, but never overbearing.
After letting our excesses rest a while we finished our wine and ended our excursion with two light and delightful mini pot au mousse, one pistachio flavoured and the other a mix of mint and chocolate served with a mini palmier.
It was a fabulous evening in the understated elegance of Provence sampling food that definitely matched the exquisite surroundings and all at very reasonable prices. Was it enough to break my aversion to hotel restaurants, the verdict on that is still out, but if there are others like Osco out there, then it’s a definite ‘maybe’!
Osco Restaurant
The Intercontinental Hotel
360 St Antoine St West
Tel: 514 847-8729
Reservations: www.opentable.com
Website: http://montreal.intercontinental.com/fr/bar-restaurant/osco
