By Michael Minorgan for Curtains Up minorgan@yahoo.ca
The word ‘bistro’ automatically brings to mind those iconic unpretentious Paris eateries that celebrate honest traditional cuisine served in a jovial and cosy atmosphere where great conversation and joie de vivre abound.
True bistro food is almost always traditional and based largely on local seasonal ingredients. They are places where the service is attentive, the prices are very reasonable and, if by chance you are a regular to one of these establishments, your relationship with the chef is such that after a meal you probably feel quite comfortable visiting the kitchen and chatting with him.
Unfortunately, in today’s world, the ‘authentic bistro’ is being slowly transformed by some young chefs intent on updating and embellishing the classics, with both good and not so good results. The decor now tends to be more modern, the prices much higher and the portions sadly much smaller with plates of food that should feel more at home in an art gallery than on a bistro table. The relaxed convivial atmosphere has given way to a more regulated, by reservation only policy where diners are allotted a set time period in which to eat their meal.
Among Montreal’s bevy of fine international restaurants there are still a small handful of typical bistro eateries. But even among this meagre handful I would dare to guess there are very few that hold to the authentic bistro doctrine. Most are a compromise between the authentic bistro and what might be called ‘bistronomy’, a much more ‘tendy’ appellation.
One of these ‘compromises’ is a stalwart of Montreal bistros, LaLoux, which for 25 years has been neatly tucked away on a nondescript section of Pine Ave in the Plateau. Named after its original Chef Philippe LaLoux it has long been a favourite of Montreal’s ‘sophisticated’ diners.
I ventured out on recent Wednesday night to observe for myself why this stalwart has been so popular over the last quarter of a century. There are not many restaurants in this city that can boast of such staying power!
LaLoux had me under its spell as soon as I set foot inside its doorway. The dining room is in one word beautiful. It is elegant, clean and despite its monochrome color scheme of creamy yellow and dark green verging on black it is somehow welcoming, peaceful, casual and yes even romantic in an elegant ‘old world’ way. Adding to the bistro panache are tables neatly double covered in crisp white linens with linen napkins, sparkling glasses and polished cutlery at every setting. In the summer there is a delightful and cosy terrasse fronting the restaurant under a black and white striped canopy and embellished with lush greenery and summer flowers.
The menu at LaLoux is not large; a good sign in my estimation, there are just 7 or 8 appetizers ($6-$21 for foie gras) and only 6 main courses ($22-$29).
Before discussing the food at LaLoux let me start by saying that during my 50 years of living in Montreal I have dined at many of Montreal’s restaurants, but I can also say in the same breathe that among those many there are only a very small handful that I would eagerly put on my ‘must return’ list. LaLoux has definitely won a permanent place on this list and qualifies for many a return visit. I dare to say that my recent visit to Laloux qualifies as one of the very best all around meals I have enjoyed in Montreal in quite some time, maybe taking everything into account, the best ever!
I am not a big fan of restaurant chefs who are more interested in giving us a plate of artfully placed ingredients displayed on grossly over sized plates with portions of food that are more suitable to a mouse. These pretentious plates of food more aptly belong as I have said in an art gallery along with their exorbitant prices. Give me honest food, in reasonable portions, nicely plated and at reasonable prices and please forgo the culinary splashes of Kadinsky and Pollack, I am not impressed, I came to eat not to look at a culinary painting!
The dishes at LaLoux prepared by their Chef Johnathan LaPierre-Rahayem are indeed beautifully presented, but never to the determent of the portions or the prices and every one of them uses the utmost in fresh, quality ingredients.
We started the evening with Chilled Quebec Cucumber Soup with Fresh Goat Cheese, Hemp Seeds and Dill ($8). Presented in a rustic bowl the freshness of the soup was exquisite and was wonderfully complemented by a creamy nugget of local goat cheese, a very refreshing dish with a wonderful textural finish.
I had the appetizer of Black Cod with Honey Mushrooms, Sandworth, Sun Flower Seeds and a Guinea Fowl Consommé infused with Nordic Herbs ($17). The nugget of black cod was perfectly pan seared preserving the rich creamy texture of this much prized fish (one of my all time favourite seafood choices). The tender honey mushrooms and crunchy sunflower seeds added great texture. The whole dish was artfully brought together with a deliciously light and fragrant guinea fowl consommé. A simple looking dish, but a memorable complex mix of flavours and textures!
To accompany our meal we chose a light and fruity bottle of red wine from Chili, Valle de Maule, El Pais de Quenehuao, Louis Antoine Luyt ($48). The wine list at LaLoux is extensive, but it offers a great choice of wines in all categories at reasonable prices.
For main courses I chose the Guinea Fowl Labrador Tea Roasted with Green Pea Puree, Oyster Mushroom Remoulade and a ‘Bog Myrtle’ Sauce ($26). I am not familiar with either Labrador tea or bog myrtle, but this lack of knowledge in no way affected my appreciation of this culinary masterpiece. The guinea fowl was perfectly roasted, tender and moist throughout, the green pea puree was smooth and rich and the slightly sweet bog myrtle sauce delicious and a perfect match for the guinea fowl. As a side note, I researched the origin of bog myrtle and found it to be indigenous to Scotland and among its many culinary uses it was used to flavour beer before the advent of hops. (1) This was way up there as one of the best all around dishes I have the pleasure to eat….ever!
My companion chose the Beef Flank Steak with Oyster Mushrooms, Green Onions, Black Garlic, Fingerling Potatoes and Shallot Sauce ($25). The flank streak was perfectly cooked medium rare with a rich caramelized crust and full of meaty flavour. Its accompaniments of sautéed green onion, roasted sweet black garlic and creamy roasted fingerling potatoes all presented on top of a superb rich sauce of red wine and caramelized shallots, always a great foil to grilled or pan seared meats….delicious!
Having been witness so far to near culinary perfection, we decided to test the kitchen further by choosing two desserts from their small, but very original dessert menu that offers wine parings for each selection. My companion chose the Chocolate Dulce and Fresh Cheese Cremeux, Gingerbread and Apple and Seabucket Thorn Sorbet ($10). The chocolate dulce was sinfully rich and creamy and was complemented perfectly with crunchy gingerbread crumbs and the slightly tart seabucket thorn sorbet. Seabucket thorn is a plant found in Northern Europe, China and the Himalayas and produces berries whose juice is used to flavour many dishes and drinks in parts of Asia and Europe. (1)
My choice was a Lemon Tart with Rosemary Marshmallows, Citrus Yogurt Foam and Grapefruit Pink Peppercorn Sorbet ($9). It was beautifully presented, a more than ample portion and a refreshing array of flavours and textures. The plate was an artfully decomposed lemon meringue pie. The meringue topped lemon tart in its buttery crust was presented in two halves along with bruleed pieces of rich and chewy rosemary marshmallow. The refreshing slightly tart grapefruit and pink peppercorn sorbet was a wonderful foil for all the richness. A perfect ending to an exceptional meal.
Service throughout was engaging, knowledgeable and thoroughly professional.
Dinner at LaLoux was definitely a night to remember and one that I will hopefully relive again and again. Delicious, creative dishes, offered at reasonable prices and served by a friendly staff in probably one the city’s most beautiful dining rooms. What more could one ask for!
Our bill including two cocktails and a bottle of wine, but including taxes or tip, was $160.00
LALOUX
250 Pine Ave E
Reservations: 514 287-9127
Lunch: Mon-Fri 11.45am – 2:30pm
Dinner: Sun – Thurs 5:30pm – 10.00pm
Fri & Sat 5:30pm – 11.00pm
Website: www.laloux.com
