By Chef Michael Minorgan for Curtains Up
Recently we have heard a lot about the effects of “globalization“ in all aspects of our lives and how we all are all globally intertwined as never before. Advances in communications and travel have made even the most remote areas of the world available to us. This is also abundantly clear so far as food is concerned. Over the past few decades our cities and towns have become much more ethnically diversified and this diversification has brought with it the emergence of many ethnic communities in our neighbourhoods and a wonderful array of food stores that make their bounty available to all of us. All we have to do is step out of the box and be a bit adventurous to opening up our palates and imaginations to the wonderful exotic flavours that eagerly await us around almost very corner.
I have been a coffee addict for most of my adult life, my coffee tastes always tend towards the stronger and more fully flavoured varieties. Discovering Vietnamese coffee on my first trip to Viet Nam some 7 years ago blew my mind..I had never tasted anything like it!
Coffee was introduced to Viet Nam by the French in 1857 and next to rice has been a major source of the country`s income since the early 20th century. The Vietnamese love of coffee is second only to their addiction to “pho“, their national dish. As a result of this passion for the much prized coffee bean Viet Nam is now second only to Brazil as the world`s largest exporter of this prized beverage. Locally owned and operated coffee cafes abound in all their cities and towns (Starbucks has not yet penetrated this communist/capitalist market!).
On my many visits to Sai Gon and other towns and villages in Viet Nam I have spent many an enjoyable evening sipping their “ca phe chon“ with sweetened condensed milk brewed in the “phin, a small individual coffee brewer. My variety of choice is Legendee Coffee, a commercially produced and simulated varietal of the famous and extremely expensive Kopi Lumak or Weasel Coffee originally from Indonesia. These coffee beans are ingested by a weasel or civet, passed through its digestive tract, washed (thoroughly), dried, then roasted. It sounds kind of ugly but, boy is it good! Legendee Coffee is produced by the largest coffee company in Viet Nam, the Trung Nguyen Coffee Company in Sai Gon.
My taste for this coffee so overwhelmed my palette that when I returned home my one time favourite locally bought coffee just didn’t make the grade anymore. I anxiously set about trying to find Legendee Coffee here in Montreal. Lo and behold, through the marvels of the internet, I found that indeed one can purchase it on line from a Trung Nguyen on line store. I was saved and my mornings became bearable again!
This is just one example of how available almost all foods are today. If you just take the time to seek them out. You really can make them part of your daily menus and experience all manner of exotic flavors.
I am including a couple of home tested recipes using coffee. Both are fabulous! I hope you enjoy them. By the way, Legendee Coffee with sweetened condensed milk makes the most amazing iced coffee you will ever taste.
The Short Rib recipe incorporates a variety of Mexican chilli that goes very well with chocolate something we will discuss in future columns..
I have also included a link for the on line purchase of Vietnamese coffees from the Trung Nguyen Company and an article about Vietnamese coffee that you might find interesting..
http://www.vietnamese-coffee.com/coffee_trung_nguyen_shop.php
http://coffeegeek.com/guides/vietnameseiced
Email: michael@globalgourmets.ca
Short Ribs Braised in Ancho Chili Sauce
Ingredients
4 dried ancho chilies, stemmed, seeded, and rehydrated in boiling water till softened
1 medium onion coarsely chopped
6 garlic cloves, coarsely chopped
1 tablespoons canned chipotle chilies in adobo sauce
1 tablespoon tomato paste
4 tablespoons pure maple syrup
1 tablespoon fresh lime juice
5 lb beef short ribs
black pepper
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
1 ½ cups brewed coffee (Vietnamese Legendee Coffee preferred)
Method
Preheat oven to 350°F.
Drain chillies in a colander set over a bowl. Taste soaking liquid: Reserve some soaking liquid for braising. Transfer the ancho chilies to a blender and purée with onion, garlic, chipotles with sauce, maple syrup, lime juice, and a little salt.
Pat ribs dry and sprinkle season with salt and pepper Heat oil in a heavy skillet over moderately high heat until hot but not smoking, then brown ribs, turning occasionally, do not crowd pan do in batches if necessary. Transfer as browned to a roasting pan just large enough to hold ribs in 1 layer.
Add chilli purée to fat remaining in skillet carefully and cook over moderately low heat, stirring frequently, 5 minutes. Add about 2 cups of reserved chili soaking liquid and coffee and bring to a boil, then pour over ribs (liquid should come about halfway up sides of meat).
Cover roasting pan tightly with foil and braise ribs in middle of oven until very tender about 31/2- 4 hours. Skim fat from pan juices and serve with ribs. Sauce can be thickened a bit with some beurre manie ( a smooth blended mix of butter and flour slowly whisked into the sauce).
